Brakes
Rotors and calipers for hydraulic disc brakes, for road, gravel and MTB. Each part depends on another: the levers dictate the fluid, the frame the caliper mount, the hub the rotor mount.
Rotors and calipers for hydraulic disc brakes, for road, gravel and MTB. Each part depends on another: the levers dictate the fluid, the frame the caliper mount, the hub the rotor mount.
A disc brake is a lever, a hose, a caliper, a rotor and pads, and each part depends on another. The levers dictate the fluid: DOT for SRAM, mineral oil for Shimano and Campagnolo, never one in place of the other. The frame and fork dictate the caliper mount, Flat Mount on road and gravel, Post Mount on MTB, and the intended rotor size. The hub dictates the rotor mount: the whole selection is Center Lock. Starting from what you are keeping avoids the part that will not fit.
A stop from 50 km/h to zero, at 85 kg including the bike, turns about 8 kJ into heat. If it all stayed in a 120 g steel rotor, the rotor would heat up by nearly 150 °C in a single stop. On a long descent, one braking follows another, and it is heat that takes away the bite. Hence Hope's floating brake rotors, whose stainless track expands on an aluminium carrier that sheds the heat, and larger diameters, which add mass and lever arm.
On road and gravel, Hope RX4+ SL brake calipers are sold on their own and connect to the hose of your existing levers, in a DOT or mineral version depending on the lever brand. The RX4+ SL FM+20 also takes a rotor 20 mm larger without an adapter. On MTB, the XCR Pro E4 comes complete, lever, hose and caliper, supplied bled.
Pads and rotors wear together. Hope calipers come with their pads, and a Hope or III-PRO A1 rotor track is 1.8 mm thick when new: below 1.5 mm, replace it. Hope keeps spare parts available for at least ten years after production ends. For everything else, see warranty and after-sales.
Never. Each brake works with a single fluid, the one its seals are made for: any other will cause brake failure. DOT 5, which is silicone-based, must also be kept out of brakes designed for DOT 4 and 5.1.
Most often, the caliper is no longer centred on the rotor after the wheel has been removed, or the rotor is bent. Loosen the caliper bolts, squeeze the lever, then retighten the caliper in place; a bent rotor is trued or replaced.
Often, a rotor or pads contaminated by grease, from chain lube or fingers, or pads that were not properly bedded in. Clean the rotor with isopropyl alcohol; contaminated pads are replaced, then bedded in with a series of progressive stops.